This is a 2004 Eddie Bauer model. I’m not totally sure though… no badges on it when I bought it, but I found an Eddie Bauer badge tucked under the seats.
Jude said:
This is a 2004 Eddie Bauer model. I’m not totally sure though… no badges on it when I bought it, but I found an Eddie Bauer badge tucked under the seats.
If it’s got two-tone paint with the lower half in Arizona beige and tan leather seats, then it’s an Eddie Bauer. If it’s gray two-tone with a gray or cloth interior, it’s probably an XLT. Check the wheels too; Eddie Bauers have chrome, while XLTs use aluminum.
I replaced both my front windows. Just go for a new one, $86 on Amazon. Not worth getting a used part. Keep the motor if it’s still working.
Blake said:
I replaced both my front windows. Just go for a new one, $86 on Amazon. Not worth getting a used part. Keep the motor if it’s still working.
That’s what I’m thinking too. Once I got it off the spool, it was working fine, so I don’t think the motor needs replacing. The local parts stores want $150 for what I need, but I found it on Rock Auto for $50 before tax and shipping.
Had the same problem on my ’03 Eddie Bauer. Picked up parts from a junkyard and put them in myself… it was a pain! Honestly, I’d skip messing with the cable and just get a new motor with the cable included if you can. Good luck!
@Hadi
Totally agree. When my dad asked if I wanted to make 50 bucks for doing this, I had no idea what I was getting into. Now I regret saying yes!
Same here on my '15 model. Wire frayed out, sounded like it was grinding up glass! Kept my original FoMoCo motor because it was fine, but the regulator came with some cheap Chinese motor.
Zion said:
Same here on my '15 model. Wire frayed out, sounded like it was grinding up glass! Kept my original FoMoCo motor because it was fine, but the regulator came with some cheap Chinese motor.
Exactly what I’m seeing on Rock Auto. Cheaper than anything local and hey, I get a cool magnet with it. This repair has been such a headache.
Zion said:
Same here on my '15 model. Wire frayed out, sounded like it was grinding up glass! Kept my original FoMoCo motor because it was fine, but the regulator came with some cheap Chinese motor.
Totally one of those ‘remember how you took it out to put it back in’ jobs. I’ve done this on a few cars, definitely not my favorite task.
Try AutoZone or another parts store, and check out some YouTube videos on replacing the regulator. Just did this on mine; it’s doable.
Ford window motors are a pain. Go with Rock Auto and try for OEM if you can. I went with a Bosch and it’s constantly tripping the fuse.
Had this on my ‘07 too. Got the full assembly from Rock Auto and just reused my motor.
Window regulator fixes are super common. Bought mine with the seller warning me the driver’s window was ‘broken.’ Was a simple fix. Parts aren’t too pricey, and the repair took me about an hour (I’ve done it before). If you’re not familiar, there are solid YouTube tutorials, and I’d recommend a Haynes Manual for your car.
Long story short, just buy a new regulator. The cables aren’t really replaceable, and usually, it’s the cable guides that break first. The motor tends to last, so if it still works, it’s an under-$100 fix. Mechanics will charge more just because the job is time-consuming, with rates around $150–$200 an hour.